Our designer fits everything too tightly. He is very focused on making the clothes look just like his renderings whether or not the fabric, actor's shape, or style of costume will mesh in just the way he has drawn it. Let's face it, a 1950's dart does not work on everyone.

Because the clothes are too tight, everyone looks like a cartoon with their body too much on display even when covered up. The actors are always complaining that their armholes are too tight. We have had to do too many alterations, letting things out after they have been worn a couple of times. He is always on another project by then and does not want to hear any "complaints." I have tried to fix the problems during the initial stitching, but he insists we sew using his marks.

We are beginning our second year of collaboration and I've got to do something or I'll go nuts.

There is a reason that "ease" is left in a pattern. Depending on the style, there needs to be room inside the garment for underwear, boning, seam allowances, lining and interlining, facings and interfacing, pockets and closures. But it is doubtful that you will be able to change the designer's "eye" about tightness. What is really a problem is having to spend your time, stitcher money and/lab student hours on alterations after the finishing and wearing stages

As shop supervisor you should be in charge of the fittings. Once you have done your part, the designer can approve and add finishing touches. The actor also has a voice at this time as he/she practices walking and movement patterns pertinent to their roles.

Make a list of the garments and hours spent on alterations. A couple of times is just a mistake, but several times on every show reveals a chronic problem. Talk to the designer about this when you have the planning meeting for the coming season. Do not make it his fitting problem, but instead one that you have to solve together because it is costing money. Initiate an end-(or beginning) of-year report/talk with the producer (head of department, production manager, money person) in which this problem is mentioned along with any other problems to be solved. This way, if it is not solved and the same thing continues to happen, neither can say that they were uninformed. Sometimes these construction problems are not addressed by the people higher on the totem pole until they are made to understand that it is "money (or time or talents) spent unwisely."

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